I won’t deny, brioche looks complicated. That’s why I chose a scarf as my first project—it’s straight, there’s no shaping, nothing complicated to mess around with, I could just learn the stitches and practice, practice, practice. I love the colors of the Caron Cakes, and how they change, making color blocks without me having to do anything! I followed the video tutorial from the Unapologetic Knitter to learn the stitches. (Their tutorial is great—I also have a video below with the colors I used, although my video quality is somewhat less than awesome. I’m hoping to rig a new tripod setup before my next video, but for this one I confess I taped my phone to the edge of my desk so that it was pointed down toward the floor and I knit below it. Not super high tech.)
The first few rows can be confusing, so videos are really helpful, and I definitely recommend putting a stitch marker on the front side of your work so that you know which side is the front. Once you get a few inches in, it’s a little less confusing because you can tell which side is which by the dominant color that you see. And like any stitch pattern, it gets easier the more you do it.
There are so many beautiful brioche patterns out there, and I hope that you won’t let the more advanced ones intimidate you. Just try it—start simple, get a feel for it, and go on from there. It’s so squishy and soft and gorgeous that I’m sure you’ll love it!
What you’ll need:
Yarns used: Caron Cakes Yarn (medium worsted (4); 80% acrylic, 20% wool; 383 yards/200 grams), 1 skein in Faerie Cake, and Loops and Threads Impeccable Yarn (medium (4); 100% acrylic; 285 yards/127.5 grams), 1 skein in Navy.
Yardage: I used about 285 yards in each color.
Gauge: Gauge isn’t important in this project.
Other Notions: one detachable stitch marker or piece of yarn to mark the front side; one point protector if you’re using double pointed needles to keep the stitches from sliding off the other end.
Final Measurements: 7 inches wide by 73.5 inches long (I wanted it long enough to wrap around my neck twice or to reach my waist if it was only wrapped once. You can make it longer or shorter, however you like it best!)
k – knit
p – purl
yf – yarn front
yo – yarn over
sl1p – slip one purlwise
brk – brioche knit: knit the stitch and the yarn over together as one stitch
brp – brioche purl: purl the stitch and the yarn over together as one stitch
With Color 1, cast on 40 stitches.
Knit 2 rows.
Before you start the next section, it helps to clip a stitch marker or tie a piece of yarn to the front of your work so you always know which side you’re looking at and working on. For the next two rows, you’ll be looking at the front side, so you should have your marker facing you.
Next row: k2, *yf, sl1p, k1, repeat from * to end
Instead of turning your work, slide your stitches to the other end of your needle (so your working yarn is at the wrong end).
Using Color 2, knit the next row: k1, yf, *sl1p, yo, brp, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Turn your work. (Your marker will be facing away from you.)
Using Color 1, knit the next row: : k1, yf, *sl1p, yo, brp, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Don’t turn your work—slide your stitches back to the beginning of the needle and use Color 2: k1, *brk, yf, sl1p, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Turn your work.
Repeat the following rows until scarf is the desired length:
(Rows 1 and 2 are done with the front/marker facing you; Rows 3 and 4 are done with the marker facing away from you.)
Row 1 (Color 1): k1, *brk, yf, sl1p, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (Color 2): k1, yf, *sl1p, yo, brp, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 3 (Color 1): k1, yf, *sl1p, yo, brp, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 4 (Color 2): k1, *brk, yf, sl1p, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Finishing (Color 1):
Knit Row 1 once more.
Knit 2 rows.
Bind off. Sew all ends under.